It Was a Flawless Mavericks Day – November 9, 2017
Grant Twiggy Baker: “I was first out, first light, paddled off the beach early. And it was flawless, really flawless mavericks, you know, the perfect size, clean, beautiful mavericks. The period in the swell you can tell straight away when you get out there. A 20-seconds swell period is…there’s so much more water and thickness in the waves.
I’d been sitting at the back. There’d been one or two waves through the morning that had kept on that outer reef, and looked like you could take off and back-door the bowl on. So I had gone and sat kind of deep and further out, waiting for that wave again. And it didn’t really come for about half an hour, 45 minutes, so I lost a bit of patience. And I paddled in a little bit, but I was still deep and then that’s when that wave came.”
The Mother of All Wipeouts – Mavericks
Grant Twiggy Baker: “And a lot of waves that I had seen that morning had been just barreling on the bowl. I’m thinking if the back door open comes through, so that was my plan for my next wave. And, you know, I got a nice entry, I wasn’t too late, I got on the rail early and I really just laid it over on the rail and tried to, you know, not go to the bottom.
Kind of stay high on the face and do my bottom turn high on the face, so I could come up and drive through the bowl. But, as I came up the bottom and looked up, the barrel wasn’t gonna throw. It was kind of, you know, getting a little bit tight on the top, and because it got tight, I probably wasn’t gonna get in there. And, I mean, the last thing you wanna do is take a leap on the head in a 25-foot wave at Mavericks surf.
At the last second, I had to kinda straighten out and try to get away from the lip. Instead of pulling in I had to kinda, you know, go out into the flats. And for a split second I thought, “Oh, I’m gonna arch around the lip.” But as I thought, I looked back, I could see it coming. And Ah, it was gonna connect me on top of my board which would be the worst place to be. So, as the lip came down, I managed to just jump up and get away from my board.”
I Mean it a was Brutal, It Steamrolled Me
Grant Twiggy Baker: “And the lip kinda hit right where I was jumping and just threw me into the air like that boof! And threw me…I don’t know how far. It felt like 10 meters forward in front of the wave, and then I hit and rolled, and then the thing steam-rolled me. And it was, I mean, it was brutal, I got hit hard. But the next wave actually was even worse. Because, when I came up from the first wave, I was right where the second section joins with the foam. So, you get the peak and then you get the second section, and it all comes together there.
And I was right in the apex of that. And I managed to get a quick breath and then just took that second wave on the head. And then took the third one in the apex of the third ball, and the fourth one in the apex of the fourth ball, and eventually just got washed up past Mushroom Rock and I was into the lagoon eventually into the clean water. ”
The Mind of a Champion
Grant Twiggy Baker: “You know, a wipeout like that at the beginning of the season I think, you know, if you don’t get hurt and you survive it, it instills a lot of confidence. You know, because “The Jaws” contest was the next day. So, you know, I kinda had that wipeout, I paddled back out, caught a few more waves that I made and surfed successfully. And I walked outta there thinking, “Oh well, you know, nothing can be worse than that.”
You know, yeah, I mean, that instills a bit of confidence, even though it was an unsuccessful ride and I got pounded, it gave me a lot of confidence going into “The Jaws” event.
It Could Have Been the Ride of a Lifetime
Grant Twiggy Baker: “The wave that I didn’t make was a very special maverick’s wave. You know you only get one of those every couple years. I wish I’d made it. I mean, you know, that could have been the ride of a lifetime if I had made that one.”